Written by Major (retd.) Laurence MacCallum, MC, President of the Commando Association and first published in Commando Association newsletter 81 of September 1985. Click/touch highlighted names for more. Image from our archive [view here]. 

Pilgrimage to Vis, Yugoslavia. 
Thanks entirely to the hard work of Peter Bickmore and his charming wife Doreen, of the Coastal Forces Veterans Association, a joint operation of Army and Naval Veterans returned in May to Yugoslavia for the celebration of the 40th Anniversary of Victory.

The pilgrimage was combined with a holiday, the first week being spent at Hvar, the second at Trogir, near Split. The people of Hvar could not do enough, with concerts being laid on every night and a 'picture gallery' of the war in Vis at the Town Hall.

However, the return to Vis was the big day with Partisans from all over Yugoslavia making a visit to the island. Arrival was in Vis harbour at 8.30 a.m., the party having been transported by two diesel powered catamarans, most comfortable and fast vessels. The buildings in the harbour were just as they were 40 years ago, with the exception of a very large hotel, built opposite the old H.Q. of No. 2 Troop.

The whole of Vis turned out to greet us, including the town band. Refreshments, including drinks, were laid out on long trestle tables for us.

After many welcoming speeches, the party formed up behind the standard bearers of the colours of the Coastal Forces Veterans Association, the British Legion and the Flag of the Warrington Branch of the Commando Association, carried with great dignity by Geoff Wilkes, marched up to the large Yugoslavian Memorial Plaque of fighters killed in action from Vis.

Then came the unveiling of the 'Memorial of Friendship' Plaque by 'Doc' Capt. Lionel McWilliams, MC., which is situated on a building on the Komiza Road, this being the only road from Vis.

The plaque reads: ' In Memory of the British Forces, who gave their lives alongside those gallant Partisans of Tito's Liberation Army I943 - 1945. We will remember them. May l985. British Coastal Forces Veterans Association and The Commando Association'. 

Here, a short service was conducted by Major MacCallum, followed by the 'Last Post'. after which 'Reveille was sounded.

The Memorial was unveiled by Bill Cobby, Chairman of the CFVA and Major MacCallum, MC. A reply was made by Mr. Marinkovic, representing Vis and the Partisans. A visit was then made to the very good museum at Vis, which contains many exhibits of No. 2 Commando. 

After a short bus ride, the RAF Memorial was reached. From here there is a magnificent view of the air-strip, now replanted with vines, although the hazards lights were still in place !

Then on to Tito's cave where excellent wine tasting was laid on.

Continuing to Konija, the party was warmly welcomed and a parade was held at the local Memorial Plaque to the memory of fighters killed in action from that town.

The Association wreath was laid here by Major Ronnie Mitchell, MBE. The two houses used by Col. Jack Churchill DSO, MC, and Admiral Morgan Giles during the war, and on which plaques had been laid and unveiled by the British Ambassador last year, were visited next. The wreath placed on the army plaque was laid by Dusty Miller.

After this, the locals just mobbed the visitors, with the youngsters, who seemingly all spoke English, acting as interpreters for the older generation, who related an almost endless stream of stories from the war. One of the most interesting of these gentlemen, clad in a " city suit ", insisted on meeting Major MacCallum and on coming face to face with the Major, related how, as a boy of 16, he had been put on a LCI by the Major (at that time a Lieut.) and sent to Bari before continuing on to Egypt, and safety. He could not thank the visitors enough. 

Here, as at Vis, all the youth organisations' representatives were dressed in national costume, as indeed were many of the grown-ups, and it was something of an achievement to round up the visitors in order to return to Vis. 

On returning to Vis, we headed for the Hotel Issa for the official luncheon, Toasts in honour of the visitors were made by Mr. Dalic, President of the Assembly, and by General Piacho Peocla, and replies made by Major MacCallum and the Assistant Ambassador. Following this, everyone moved on to the Narodni Dom (Town Hall) for further entertainment.

After what seemed an almost too short time, the visitors boarded the vessels for the return voyage with the whole population of Vis on the quayside singing 'Tipperary' to the accompaniment of the local band. This was specially fitting, as this was the tune the Commandos were welcomed with 40 years ago. This time the locals sang it to bid us farewell. 

The rest of the holiday was not anticlimax. The party moved to Trogir, near Split, from which excursions and official trips were made. One such excursion from the hotel's quayside was to Solta, travelling by large schooner, for a fish lunch. Unfortunately, there was no time to visit Grohote.

Later, the official Navy Museum at Split was visited, and we were surprised to see the old vessel 'Marco Polo', now embedded in concrete from bow to smoke-stack - this was the vessel which was used to ferry almost everything, including troops, from Bari to Vis. Rather this than the breakers yard! 

At Padgora, a parade was held at the marvellous Navy Memorial, where a broken sea-gull's wing symbolises the loss of the Yugoslav Navy, and a complete wing on  the other side represents its reformation.

On the last night at the hotel, the visitors gave a party of thanks to our splendid Yugoslav hosts. The British Ambassador attended, having kindly made the journey from Belgrade. To him our thanks. Organising the parades for 170 people is no easy task and for this, thanks also to Tan Rudge DCM.

However, this must be finalised as it was started, with grateful thanks to Peter and Doreen Bickmore for organising and looking after everyone and everything. We will all come again. (Sgd.) L. MacCallum.